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KITESURF | SURF

Kitesurf and Surf trip in Marocco

Kitesurf in Essaouira and surf in Taghazout

Morocco has long been on my list of destinations to visit for a kite and surf trip. But up until now there had never been an opportunity. This time there was a series of coincidences that we really couldn't resist, including the main one: ryanair tickets at ridiculous prices. And so it was that on March 24 we landed at the airport of Marrakech, which incidentally is really beautiful ... pity only that the speed is not up to the architecture. I think I waited more than an hour for the delivery of the sports equipment and even more to be able to collect our rental Dacia. 

For the first night we had booked a Riad in Marrakech because luckily some friends had warned us that it would probably take us a while to get out of the airport and the trip to Essaouira is long enough to do at night. We left for Essaouira the next morning, right after breakfast. We took about 3 hours to reach the destination, stopping only to see up close an Argan tree full of goats, evidently climbing there by the shepherds in search of the coins of the tourists who like us stopped to take a picture.

Kitesurfing in Essaouira

When we arrived in Essaouira it was this midday there was already a nice wind and we could see several sails in the air already from the road. Following them we found ourselves without difficulty in the parking lot next to the Ocean Vagabong an excellent lounge bar directly on the  kitesurf spot where we immediately installed ourselves so that while one of us threw ourselves into the sea, the other could eat something with Lorenzo and then the other way around. 

The beach of Essaouira is a gigantic bay about 4km long which is located south of the country. The kite area is in the southernmost part, right in front of the Ocean Vagabond and the parking lot. On the beach, in addition to kites, there were dozens of camels, horses and quads traveling like crazy. On the spot there are also a couple of surf shops that offer courses, rentals and assistance. No danger, no rocks, not even at sea. Forecasts spoke of 25-30 knots and waves of a couple of meters. In fact, as soon as we arrived we realized that they were a bit too optimistic! However we mounted the 8mq and we immediately entered the water: first Sergio, then it was my turn. The wind was about 20 knots, northeast direction (which is prevalent in these parts), very gusty. 
When we entered the water there was low tide. There were waves, almost a couple of meters high and quite long but really steep and very fast. Very difficult to surf. Certainly at high tide they would have become simpler, but unfortunately we could not wait for the evening because we wanted to move to Taghazout to surf since the forecasts gave no wind for the following days. However, we enjoyed the whole afternoon at sea. With us there were few other kiters. A beautiful spot, very fun both for those looking for the waves and for those who prefer to do freesyle. The only downside here is the color of the water, brown, and the smell of oil.

Let's say that if you come with companions not kiters , they will hardly find it inviting to take a bath. On the other hand, while kiting, they can relax at the beach bar, which also serves beer and various cocktails (a rarity in Morocco) and stroll through the walls of the walled city of Essaouira. The white city (as it is nicknamed) deserves a visit without any doubt. I found it really very fascinating, especially the Medina.

Traveling from Essaouira to Taghazout

We leave behind Essaouira to leave for Taghazout along the coastal road that allows us to get an idea of ??

We continue past other surf spots: Tamri , a very consistent beach break that often works even when Taghazout is flat, but unfortunately it is also exposed to the north wind, Boilers with its powerful right, killer point  the most consistent point break in the area, and finally the famous  Anchor Point at the northern end of the Taghazout bay whose right hand, when the swell is really big, can take you across the bay to the village.

Surf a Taghazout

Taghazout is one of the most popular destinations for a surf trip in Morocco: a small fishing village where the inhabitants' surf schools are more. When we saw it, in March 2018, however, it was not very attractive because the country was transformed into an  open-air construction site . All the roads, or rather the lanes, were crossed by deep excavations to provide the town with sewers. Dust, dirt and stinks everywhere. A great chaos that I don't think can be fixed so soon. Fortunately we had not chosen Taghazout as a base, but we had rented a small house in  Tamraght , the next village.

Our house was located in Aourir on Banana beach , near the mouth of an almost completely dry river, in a residence with 5 or 6 houses arranged around a swimming pool. When we arrived it was already dark, so we could not go to look around the beach to see the spot. The following morning, as soon as we woke up, we went up to the roof-terrace of the house from which there was an excellent view of the bay bounded to the north by a small promontory, while to the south the beach continued for several kilometers, interrupted every so often by offshoots of rock that touched the sea. There was already a beautiful right that unrolled from the tip towards the bay, so we immediately threw ourselves into the sea.

The waves were not very large, but long, smooth and of excellent quality. A nice point break on a mixed seabed of rock and sand. Along the bay there were other points, some a little more challenging.

The following days we explored the other points of the bay and the nearby surf spots. In particular, the surf spots of  Panorama , Devil's Rock , Hash Point . Unfortunately the weather was not on our side and the conditions were not that great. Most of the most popular commercials didn't work, or at least not as well as they could. Despite this we were able to surf every day, several times a day. It was not difficult, even from the little we could see, to imagine the perfection and beauty of these waves on good days. Even with small swells like the ones we found, they were long waves, clean, perfect and with good power.

The waves were all pretty crowded, but not so much that they couldn't surf, also because the points really are not missing. Moreover, there was hardly anyone in the early morning and at lunchtime.

Between one session and another we also dedicated ourselves to exploring the surroundings, pushing us to the nearby Agadir and its Souk full of all sorts of fruits, nuts, vegetables, spices. In my imagination Morocco was a semi-desert country, a succession of sand dunes and plateaus with little vegetation. Nothing could be more wrong. 

The locals turned out to be mostly very kind and cordial and soon we became familiar with the practice of leaving some money to the unauthorized parking attendants or to those who gave us directions, and I also enjoyed the last-minute bargaining.

On the last day we dedicated it to exploring Marrakesh and its souk. The city of Marrakesh really deserves a visit, it fascinated me with its colors, its maze of narrow streets, the square full of snake charmers and monkeys. Besides, I found it much cleaner and tidier than I expected.

Weather

We were in Morocco last week of March. Statistically it is still a good time for surfing, less for kitesurfing. The wave season in this region goes from November to early April, while the wind season from May - June to September.

As for the temperatures we found fresh in Marrakesh and Essaouira. In Essaouira surely because of the strong wind on the beach it was not particularly hot, however finding a shelter you could stay in costume.

In Taghazout it was much warmer, even in the evening. We say about 25 ° and more during the day and about 20 ° in the evening. A couple of days were characterized by haze and wind from the desert, with higher temperatures and so much sand in the sky ... the one that in the Canaries they call Calima and that in fact in the same days also blew there.

The water is cold as cold as in the Canaries to be understood. We were with 4/3 and we were fine, in fact we sometimes regretted our shoes.

Morocco: Lights and shadows

I would like to be able to conclude this report in this way, but I would not be honest if I did not also tell what unfortunately struck me negatively: the dirt, especially on the beach and at sea. The beaches are invaded by plastic. Early in the morning the Moroccans gather the garbage in small heaps and set fire to it directly on the beach, so during some sessions that we did at dawn we were accompanied by the acrid smell of burnt plastic. Outside the larger cities, which are much cleaner and tidier than I expected, garbage bins are a rarity. We only managed to find one near the campsite for tourists. The sea water is no less so. They warned me that it was brown, but I was thinking because of the sand and the surrounding clay, but it also gives off a bad smell of oil mixed with various drains. In the period in which we were at sea it happened to us more than once to smell poo. One day they even got out of the water so as not to return. This situation was then confirmed to me by many friends who have been in this area. Fortunately we had no problems, but the advice is to refuel at the pharmacy before leaving.
I conclude with a final reflection. If you plan to come to Morocco to surf unexplored waves and walk wild roads, change your destination or move on. This stretch of coast is practically an open-air construction site where resorts, condominiums and hotels are under construction. Now there are bulldozers and construction sites but I imagine that in a couple of years the resorts will be finished and ready to welcome caravans of tourists ...

Is it worth coming here to surf?  In my opinion yes and in fact there are dozens, or rather hundreds, surfers who crowd these waters and the reason is that the waves are really quality from November to March, while the wind blows incessantly in the rest of the year and in Essaouira even in winter. Conditions like this can cause many things to be overlooked. But it seemed right to tell me about lights and shadows, because reading the other reports or the guides of tour operators specialized in surfing and kite trips, these aspects never emerge. Knowing this before, perhaps he is less impressed and perhaps the situation is better accepted, contextualizing it within the framework of a country that has made and is making great strides, but not yet in all sectors.  

One last note. Purtropppo, today, as I write this report, I heard on the radio the disconcerting news of the extermination, by the government, of dozens and dozens of stray dogs or stray seeds in this area. As usual, the weakest pay the price for the wrong policies. 

Pubblicato il 01 maggio 2018 | Blog > Trips: KITESURF | SURF

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