Sometimes surfing, feeling the salt on your skin, the water slipping on you is not enough. Sometimes we need a moment to reflect on this passion that powerfully occupies every free moment and beyond, especially when something keeps us away from the sea, or when we are looking for a symbolic gift to share with a special person. Sometimes we need to read in black and white the thoughts of those who like us love to get lost in the sea to find some sanity, of those who rely on unstable balance on a table to find a little inner balance, in a world that sometimes just seems to whirl without a direction.
This is our very personal list of books to give as gifts, to read, or to keep on the nightstand, hopefully not only during the lockdown ... strictly in no particular order!
1. Wild days. A Life on the Waves by William Finnegan
The story of an adventure, the diary of an obsession, an unmissable biography for every surfer, but also for those who are dealing with a surfer who want to try to get closer to understanding this passion more deeply. One of the rare books on surfing that is also an excellent literary work, so much so that it has earned no less than the 2016 Pulitzer Prize for Biography. An engaging, passionate story made by a great reporter, as well as a surfer.
Paperback : 496 pages ISBN-10: 8898970587
Publisher: 66th and 2nd (June 30, 2016)
2. Looking for the Wave, by Christopher Vick
The story of a passion, that of Sam, the protagonist, for Jade, a restless and reckless surfer who becomes the story of an incredible passion for surfing, against the backdrop of teenage dramas. An engaging adventure that we recommend reading to young surfers but not only.
Paperback : 368 pages ISBN-10: 8809862236
Publisher: Giunti (February 27, 2019)
3. PelleQuattroTre: Thickness of life, by Daniele Paolucci
Daniele Paolucci tells us in this fictionalized biography his point of view on surfing and he does so by dragging the reader on a journey in search of the wave. A very successful first novel by this Roman surfer and writer. A book on surfing as an analogy with life that can be read quickly, leaving many interesting ideas.
Paperback : 159 pages ISBN-13: 978-8833611563
Publisher: The White Seed (July 12, 2019)
4. 7 Feet, by Enrica Marra
After an Italian surfer it is the turn of an Italian surfer: Enrica Marra. 7 Feet is a beautiful book to leaf through, where words blend with photos and above all with the unconditional love for surfing and salt water, or rather as the author herself says "This book tells about this. respect for life, nature and for a special sport ".
Paperback : 64 pages ISBN-10: 8831499092
Publisher: Linea Edizioni (9 September 2020)
5. Garuda. Zen and the art of surfing by Winki
This book, once again written by an Italian author - even though he lived for a long time in Australia - is the story of a journey in search of the perfect wave, a journey into nature and an inner journey. "Garuda" is the story of an adventure that will bring the three protagonists Winki, Marco to discover the Indonesian islands by motorbike with a surfboard and a backpack. Winki, globetrotter and surfer of the soul, tells of a physical and spiritual journey, an experience of reconnection with the cosmos in the name of freedom and friendship, to rediscover oneself thanks to the sea and its strength.
Paperback : 302 pages ISBN-10: 8817141798
Publisher: Rizzoli (July 9, 2019)
6. The Dawn Patrol, Don Winslow
Don Winslow is the author of several noir novels. including The Power of the Dog, The Patrol of Dawn, The Tongue of Fire and the beautiful The Beasts from which Oliver Stone made a very successful film. Winslow's novels are set in a sordid and corrupt San Diego populated by Surfers who are extravagant, eternal risk-loving kids and very often criminals and drug addicts. In this novel the protagonist is Boone Daniels, a former policeman who now lives for surfing: for him, going out on patrol no longer means facing the small and large criminals of San Diego, but the waves of the ocean. A nice noir also to remember that surfing is not all Peace and Love
Paperback : 376 pages ISBN-10: 8806226916
Publisher: Einaudi (March 25, 2015)
7. Who Sends the Waves by Fabio Genovesi
A delicate and well-written novel that tells a story suspended between the Versilia sea and the profile of the Apuan Alps. The story of Luna, an albino girl with so clear eyes that to see she needs imagination, to her brother Luca, who surfs the waves stealing the hearts of the girls of the town, to Serena, their wonderful mother who has them grown up alone. All overwhelmed by a destiny that sends them adrift, while other castaways gather around them, weird and full of life at the same time. Surfing is the background of this novel, but if you live or surf in Versilia you will undoubtedly love how the author tells about these places.
Paperback: 391 pages
Publisher: Mondadori; 1st edition (31 May 2016)
8. Sergio Bambaren's perfect wave
Reading Bambaren is like treating yourself to a cuddle, a hug. Bambarén, writer-surfer-militant and globetrotter loves to sweetly tell the sea, the animals that populate it and the magic of the board that runs over the surf. This is a book that can be read in one breath. And we end up dreaming of being like the protagonist "to make us too fly in the skies of life the seagull that is in our heart". A writing that flows fast, but not banal, romantic, dreamlike, fascinating. A good book for those who need to dream.
Paperback : 120 pages ISBN-10: 8868360837
Publisher: Sperling & Kupfer (21 October 2013)
9. The World Stormrider Surf Guide
That is the bible of surf spots in the world. A book that every surfer should have on their bedside table, especially these days, to travel at least with the mind and plan the next surf trip. A book that collects a lot of useful information on hundreds of waves around the world, a real encyclopedia with over 260 detailed maps
Hardcover: 446 pages
Publisher: Wilderness Pr; 1st ed, November 2018 edition (15 October 2018)
10. Surf Craft: Design and the Culture of Board Riding, di Richard Kenvin
A nice photographic guide to surfboards and their evolution, in shapes and materials. From the very first wooden boards to modern surfboards. Very interesting to understand the evolution of this sport.
Hardcover: 190 pages
Publisher: Mit Pr; New edition (29 August 2014)