• Foto di Victor Gonzalez
  • Freesurferschool


Enrica Marra

4 chat with the author of 7 Feet

Hi Enrica, first of all tell us about yourself, where you were born, where you lived, where you live

Hello! I was born and raised in the province of Venice, but I have lived in many places, first in the city and then, when surfing took over, in small seaside towns in different parts of the world. I have probably spent most of my time between Montezuma and Santa Teresa, Costa Rica.
Currently my base is Rimini, but I tend to change often and who knows, maybe it's time to ride the next wave.

Speaking of waves, tell us about the first time you surfed. Why did you try, with whom, where. And above all, was it love at first sight?

"The first love is never forgotten!" I was traveling to Costa Rica, I was staying in a beautiful hostel where there was also a German girl and we pushed each other to try surfing; there is the national sport ... we who were traveling for only 15 days, could not help but savor that part of Costa Rica too. The sea was rough, but now I would say with a very small swell, I was not afraid, just pure and intense adrenaline. I have always loved water, especially salt water, and I have always thought I was part of it, the key is to realize it.
After a couple of take offs on land, the instructor pushed my board onto the foam ... and I got up, in a magical "balance flowing in the water" just like, after a few years, I got tattooed on my side.
Don't take it badly, but I think the emotion of the first time is really hard to describe; I also believe that those who have tried it are remembering it and have a smile on their face, that smile of a child as amazed and excited as he was back that day.

You have lived and surfed in many places, which is your favorite and why

I have always thought that places appear different to us depending on how we position ourselves during the journey and how we experience them. Let me explain better, if we start with expectations it may happen that the journey does not satisfy them, if instead we start to discover something new, with an open mind and available to know environments and cultures ... Well, then I say that we are starting with the right foot!
For me, all trips start like this, a few days before leaving I clear my mind to leave space and, perhaps, that's why I've always loved to go far, where cultures and habits are different from ours.
One of my favorite countries is undoubtedly Costa Rica, probably because I have been there several times and I was able to appreciate and make my own almost all the aspects that characterize it. From a surfing point of view, of course, we are talking about one of the best places in the world (in my opinion), but I admit that other places I would gladly return to are Mexico and the Maldives.
I started in Costa Rica and it is still my homespot today, the waves, although powerful and sometimes big, don't scare me; I was in Mexico a few years ago, my level was very different and I challenged myself by facing challenging situations, I experienced the breaking of the leash for the first time without panic and surfed for almost a month only right. What about the Maldives ... perfect waves, where I managed to progress and also to enjoy my "being water" in a unique way.

Is there a trip or a surf trip that has disappointed you?

As I said I think that the sensations depend a lot on the moments. The most difficult journey I have made was to Argentina, yet today I can firmly say that it was the journey of the turning point. I often found myself alone with myself, facing my frailties in and out of the water, I found crumbs of hidden strength and met friends with whom I still maintain contact. Accomplice of this path was not a good time to surf with small and infrequent swells, but it's all part of an important personal growth at 360 degrees.

This "7 Feet" is not your first book, right? do you want to tell us about your career as a writer?
In the past I have written several texts, including another book, which talks about travel, experiences, discoveries and emotions that can be felt. Needless to say, we also talk about surfing!
Coming back from travels, you are not always listened to enough to really tell everything you have experienced; moreover, we travelers too often need to sort our thoughts before exposing them, so my stories are born.
To write, you just need a piece of paper and a pen, but it can happen that I find myself without paper and then I start writing on anything: flyers, napkins, the back of other books. I love to give vent to my thoughts and it is precisely from a year of thoughts in front of the sea that 7PIEDI was born. I wanted to try to put on paper what is impossible to describe ... finally, I hope to have at least managed to share what it feels like waiting for the storm, in search of the perfect wave.

How difficult is it to be taken seriously as a surfing girl in Italy?

Not a little, but I must admit that I have received some good feedback even from guys who surf better than me.
When they tell me they are found in my words, I feel happy. It is much easier for girls to read, by nature, but also by desire for sharing and understanding, aspects that some men tend to hide. I think that in general there is a need to feel part of a group of crazy, those who go surfing even in the cold and in conditions that are not easy, but who still cannot miss a storm, even if a small one.

Projects for the future?

Behind a wave there is always another, but as always it will take time.

If you want to contact Enrica, perhaps to have a dedicated copy of her book, these are her contacts: 

fb: enrica marra
insta: enrica2670

As for his book, 7 Feet, you can find it in bookstores or even online on amazon

@credits: Photo 1 "Duckdive Victor Gonzalez" - Photo 4 "Freesurfersschool"

Pubblicato il 07 gennaio 2021 | Blog > Trips: SURF